Renfrew County is Ontario's largest county by area, stretching from the Ottawa River west into the Highlands and north to the edge of Algonquin Park. Most people drive through it on Highway 17 between Ottawa and North Bay without stopping. That's a mistake. The county holds extensive Crown land, multiple river systems, a 296 km rail trail, and the kind of uncrowded outdoor recreation that people associate with northern Ontario but find surprisingly close to the nation's capital.
Crown Land Access
Renfrew County has significant Crown land holdings, particularly in the western portions of the county and along the river corridors. This means free camping for Ontario residents on unpatented Crown land -- no reservation, no permit, no fee. The same regulations apply as throughout the province: 21-day limit per site, camp at least 30 metres from water, and follow fire restrictions.
The Ontario Backroads Mapbook (Ottawa Valley edition) is essential for identifying Crown land parcels versus private land. Getting this wrong has consequences -- property owners in the Valley don't appreciate uninvited campers. The MNRF Crown Land Use Atlas is the definitive online resource but requires some map-reading skill to use effectively.
Crown land campsites along logging roads are the easiest to access by vehicle. Look for established fire rings as signs of legal, commonly used sites. The best canoe-accessible Crown land camping requires getting off the road system entirely and paddling into lake chains where the motorboats can't follow.
Trail Systems
Ottawa Valley Recreational Trail (Algonquin Trail): This 296 km multi-use trail follows the former Ottawa, Arnprior and Parry Sound Railway corridor through the county. The Renfrew County section passes through forest, crosses rivers, and connects small towns. Surface varies from groomed gravel to rough rail bed. Suitable for hiking, cycling, and snowmobiling (winter). Not all sections are equally maintained -- the stretches near towns are generally in better shape than remote sections.
K&P Trail: The Kingston and Pembroke rail corridor, now a 180 km trail stretching from Renfrew south to Kingston. The northern sections through Renfrew County cross Shield terrain with rock cuts, forest, and lake views. Multi-use, mostly ungroomed. Good for hiking and mountain biking in summer, snowshoeing in winter.
Forest Lea Trails: 30 km of volunteer-built single-track through 600 acres of Crown land west of Pembroke. Rocky, root-strewn terrain on a stacked loop system. Designed primarily for mountain biking but equally good for hiking. The trails are maintained by local volunteers and represent the kind of community-built outdoor infrastructure that makes Renfrew County interesting -- no park fees, no opening hours, just trails in the woods.
Barron Canyon Trail: Technically in Algonquin Park's eastern section, but accessed from the Renfrew County side. A short (1.5 km) trail to the rim of a 100 metre deep canyon carved by glacial meltwater. One of the most dramatic short hikes in the province. Drive in via Barron Canyon Road from Highway 17.
River Access
The Madawaska, Bonnechere, and Petawawa rivers all flow through or originate in Renfrew County. The Bonnechere is the least paddled of the three and offers gentle Class I-II whitewater through a mixed forest corridor. The section near Eganville is particularly accessible, with put-in points along the road and Crown land camping options downstream.
The Ottawa River forms the county's northern and eastern boundary. Sections near Deep River and Chalk River offer excellent paddling on a wide, powerful river with island camping opportunities on Crown land. The whitewater sections near Beachburg (downstream of Pembroke) draw commercial rafting operations and experienced paddlers.
Towns and Services
Pembroke: The county seat and largest town. Full services -- grocery stores, Canadian Tire, gas stations, restaurants. The closest thing to a base camp for Crown land trips in the western Valley. The Pembroke Heritage Murals along the downtown streets are worth a walk if you're killing time.
Deep River: Smaller town on the Ottawa River, home to Chalk River Laboratories (the nuclear research facility). Good access to Crown land paddling on the Ottawa. Lamure Beach is a sandy beach on the river with a 4 km walking trail.
Eganville: Small town on the Bonnechere River. The Bonnechere Caves are a geological attraction -- caves formed in Ordovician limestone with guided tours. Useful as a stopping point for Bonnechere River trips.
Barry's Bay: Services the Madawaska corridor. Grocery store, gas, and access to MKC and Paddler Co-op for whitewater instruction.
When to Go
Spring (April-May): High water on all rivers. Best whitewater season. Snow melt opens the logging roads slowly -- some may be impassable until mid-May. Bugs emerge late May.
Summer (June-August): Full access to all trails and water routes. Crown land camping at its most comfortable. Bug pressure drops through July. Swimming in rivers and lakes.
Fall (September-October): The mix of Canadian Shield rock, hardwood forest, and river valley creates excellent fall colour. The Algonquin Trail and K&P Trail are particularly scenic. Cool camping, no bugs, fewer people.
Winter: The trail systems become snowmobile and snowshoe corridors. Winter camping on Crown land is an option for the prepared. Ice fishing on the lakes is popular locally.
Bottom Line
Renfrew County isn't glamorous. There's no iconic park brand, no Instagram hashtag driving traffic, and no commercial outfitter marketing machine. What there is: a lot of Crown land, a lot of rivers, a lot of trails, and very few people on any of them. For paddlers and hikers who value uncrowded access over polished infrastructure, and who are comfortable finding their own way with a map rather than following a reservation system, this is some of the best backcountry access within a day's drive of Ottawa or Toronto.
Read our trip planning guide for Crown land logistics and the navigation guide for finding your way on unmarked routes.